Cyclone Pam 3/24 Tanna trip

Note: this is going to be somewhat detailed, because I know there are some who’ve been to Tanna and desperately want to know all the ins and outs of my trip. Those who prefer the cliff-notes version can just skip to the pics and captions, as you will get the gist of the trip from them :)

My trip started off eerily, as a sizeable group had gathered at the Vila airport to receive a coffin from Tanna…always a difficult site. Take off in Vila was then delayed, as we waited on two doctors from New Zealand to transfer over from their international flight to our domestic one.

I touched down in Tanna and found a transport headed to “town” (Lenakel), about 15 minutes away. The natural destruction I saw as we bumped along this once-familiar island road was about what I expected, and my emotions soared. There were tree branches everywhere, and being a week post-Pam meant everything had browned, either from being severed from the life-giving roots, or scorched by the Tropical March sun. No branches and leaves means no shade, and throughout my trip I noted what a toll this small fact alone took. The place was hardly recognizable.

I got dropped off at Lenakel Stadium, and one of the locals in the truck with me surprisedly exclaimed, “Are you going to walk?!? You’re going to have to jump over a lot of trees!” I just smiled and affirmed. The first hour of my walk up the hill to Loun Village was rather treacherous. It is a heavily wooded area, and for some reason every single tree decided to fall towards and onto the road. It didn’t help matters that I was carrying ten tents/tarpolines/ropes on my backside, and my personal effects on my frontside, and a plastic bag of groceries in my hand. In good conditions, the trek would have been about an hour, but it took me almost two. Thankfully, by nightfall I had reached the portion of the road that the locals had already cleared, which made it much easier to find my way. If I had had to try and navigate the lower portion of the road in the dark, I am certain that I would have ended up being lost. I had a plan B though, plenty of tents to sleep in!

As darkness set in, I came upon a villager that inquired as to my destination, and he walked with me for about five minutes, leading me to Miswel’s house. Miswel, Martha and Kal were beyond shocked to see me, and I was beyond blissful to put my bags down! It was so great to see them, huddled together under a makeshift shelter of two pieces of recycled (read: badly damaged and twisted beyond recognition) corrugated roofing held up by bamboo poles, couched down “Tanna style” and eating ripe bananas. They said that they were just about to head to the classroom to sleep. We visited briefly as we walked, and I learned that there were no deaths, or even serious injury, in their area. We came to John and Alice’s house (well, where their house used to be), and I got to surprise them and others at their compound. John had pieced together a small shack from the remains of his previous house and kitchen. It was half full with all their things, the other half being dominated by a mattress. He was sleeping there to keep an eye on the place, while his wife and kids went back and forth to the classroom each evening/morning to sleep. We immediately set up a couple of the tents I brought, and all us guys stayed there while the women and children went on to the school. I was so glad to be there, and to know that everyone was safe.

I awoke early the next morning (Sunday), and was in awe of the destruction, as it was my first time to see it in the daylight. Every house, kitchen and toilet on their land had been totally destroyed. With all the leaves and most branches gone from the trees, you could see for miles and miles around, including the tops of hills that I really didn’t even know where there. Miswel took me on a quick tour of the village, particularly to the school site where the majority of the village had taken shelter on the morning of the cyclone, and where most women and children were still sleeping each night. What a blessing these concrete structures were around the entire nation, saving countless lives. The foreign government and aid organizations who funded them deserve congratulations for rendering an invaluable service to the people of Vanuatu.

After breakfast of yam and flying fox (aka fruit bat), they began clearing a place for our assembly. The sun was relentless, and there was little shade to be had. It was an abbreviated service, but I think our assembling together met its function quite well … to encourage one another in our common faith. I spoke briefly from Jesus’ sermon in Mt 6, encouraging them to trust in Him and not to worry. After lunch, the guys and I headed up the hill about an hour to Lorakau Village, where several members live. They usually all rotate having church each Sunday between these two villages, but because of the storm had not yet made contact. It as fun to surprise them, but once again devastating to see the destruction and hard times that they too are facing. Upon seeing me, Tess began to wail loudly, the customary way to show intense sorrow and grief. I will never get used to that sound, as it penetrates you to your soul, but after about 5 minutes, she dried her eyes, smiled, and came over and shook my hand. Tess and her family, in particular, became very close to the Baker family while they lived in the village, and I think my “representing them” after such an agonizing experience was just more than she could take. I sat and visited with the family, and they told me their story of how they had endured the cyclone and its aftermath. Amazingly, two of their local-style houses were still standing!! I came to learn that they had both actually fallen to one side, but several men pulled them back upright using ropes the day after the storm.

We found some shade under the eaves of the school there, as the sun was now at full-bore, where Miswel and I took a brief nap on a pile of 2x4s. We said our goodbyes and headed back down the hill, stopping briefly at a water tap to bathe. We walked by the collecting tank that normally (although rather infrequently) supplies water down to Loun. A large banyan tree had fallen on a section of pipe in the storm, severing it and bury it deep under its massive trunk and root system, and so Loun has been without water for over a week now. They have rain tanks at the school, but with the entire village using them, they will be depleted soon.

I had planned to head on back to Lenakel in the afternoon, to give me a head start to the south for Monday morning, but the guys convinced me to just say there for the night, promising to rise early the next morning with me to make the trek to Iatukun Village. We ended up leaving about 6am (we finally made it to Tom’s house in Iatukun about 10:30). Miswel, John and I ran into Antoine in Lenakel, He was in the back of a truck, and so I was only able to shake hands and speak to him briefly, but he told me that the rest of the family was at home (I later learned that he was in town because he had joined the disaster relief committee, and will be involved in the aid distribution). As we walked south, we met Jack coming our way. He was SO surprised to see me, as we hadn’t seen each other since I dropped him and his family back at Green Pointe last November. It was so good to see him, and he turned around and followed us back south. A few minutes later, we had the same experience with Tom. Lots of smiles all around. Tom said that he had planned on staying home to work that day, but saw so many people passing by on their way to Lenakel, that he was afraid he was going to miss something so he headed down the hill too. After a brief discussion of whether we would all head back to town, or on to the village, we decided to go on to Iatukun so that I could see the rest of the family there, and witness the destruction for myself.

They too were eager to share their story of survival and resilience as we walked. Surprisingly, the road all the way south had been cleared over the weekend… no small feat! There were definitely more people on the road than normal, several in trucks but most were walking. Between the four local men I was now traveling with, they knew everyone we passed, which meant we stopped and exchanged pleasantries often. Once we reached Tom’s, I saw Margaret in the distance and joking yelled to her “where’s the house?!?” She too was surprised as could be to see me and ran over. I held out my hand for the customary handshake greeting, but she came on in and hugged me. Rather untraditional, but it showed how grateful she was to see me… what a welcome. What a blessing it was to see Tom, Margaret and their daughters all healthy and smiling. Antoine’s wife, Merriam, soon learned of our presence and came over as well. Tom showed me around the place, and while I basically knew what to expect, I was still in awe of the destruction. Church building, kitchen, and two houses had been rendered sticks. Thankfully, the posts of the church building were all still in tact, and even the door was still on it’s hinges. The bamboo walls and corrugated steel roofing sheets did not fare so well.

It was no surprise to me that Tom and had already pieced together a small house, a cooking area, and a shelter that basically looked like a crude horse stable. He is perhaps the most industrious ni-Van I know, and he had really made some progress. Thankfully, their water supply was not damaged. What a blessing water is (be grateful every time you turn on the tap or flush)! We visited and had lunch together (even though I hated to eat some of their food, with there being so little left). It was a pleasure to sit in the “horse stable” and share stories. They were eager to learn about Vila, Etas and Loun, and shared about their experience as well. We talked about the steps they’re taking to rebuild and replant, and what assistance the government and NGOs will be able to provide. We all dozed off for the normal noontime siesta, and once the sun had crested and begun its descent, the three of us began our descent back down to Lenakel?Loun as well. It was tough to say goodbye, but we were all reassured by my intention to travel back to Tanna early next month.

Miswel, John and I made the three hour trip back down to town, stopping briefly at the river for a rinse off / cool down. Man, the sun sure was strong! The cool water rushing past felt wonderful, and it was hard to leave. We made it back to Lenakel about 5:30pm, and rather than trek all the way back up the hill to Loun and then back down for my 7am airport checkin, I stayed the night at the Tanna Lodge. There were dozens of aid workers there, and the only room they had available had a huge empty space where the gables should have been, but I was happy to have the running water and a bed. After thanking Miswel and John for their company, and sharing a few gifts with them, I basically crashed until 6:00 the next morning, when I got a ride back to the airport. There are piles and piles of rice, tinned meat, noodles, and bottled water there waiting to be distributed. I do not envy the logistics of getting such aid out to the people, but hope that it will be done in an effective way.

It was a quick trip, and full of excitement. I am really glad I went, as I think it was an encouragement to the brethren there, and it gave me a better idea as to how we might assist them in the near future. While there is definitely an air of concern amidst the people, they are still smiling, very resourceful, and quite resilient. They are undoubtedly going to come out the other side of this, but are in need of help. Their primary focuses now are temporary housing, gardens, and water. I’ve spoken above of water issues, especially in Loun as their supply system was badly damaged. The housing situation is difficult. They can (and already have) pieced together what materials they can salvage from the old houses, but only a fraction of those materials remained intact which means smaller/less houses and kitchens. Too, it is difficult because the natural resources (bamboo, wild cane, coconut leaves) they would normally use to rebuild were also badly damaged or destroyed in the storm. The churches’ meeting places in both Loun and Iatukun will also need to be replaced, as there are really no other out-of-the-elements options for their assemblies. It comes as no surprise, but they are very wise when it comes to food consumption. After the storm they diligently went out and collected the fruit and vegetables that had fallen, and have been eating things in conjunction with their spoil-rate (eating things that are quicker to spoil first, saving the longer lasting items for later). Their manioc crops were basically destroyed because the high winds dislodged the roots enough that they will rot (and they weren’t yet mature enough to eat). The yam harvest begins April 1, and the yams are quite hearty and can last for months if the thick outer skin is not compromised, which will be a lifesaver. The kumala (sweet potatoes) seemed to have weathered the storm as well. Coconuts are a major staple to the Tanna diet, often consumed at breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but all the coconuts were knocked off the trees, and some 30% of the trees fell down, so that will be a hardship in the coming months.

I was pleased to see chicks, piglets and calves as I walked around the villages … the promise of new life and future provision. The banana plants that had been broken in half already had new shoots coming out, a welcomed sign of renewal. God’s creation is truly amazing, and He does care for people as a loving Father. Please be in constant prayer for everyone in Tanna and throughout Vanuatu! I believe that they are all going to be fine, but they are going to need some assistance as they get back on their feet. Thank you to all who prayed for my safe trip, and for ongoing wisdom as we seek to minister here. ~E

Loaded down and ready for adventure!

Miswel and John happy to receive their tents in Loun Village

Remains of the church building in Loun

Remains of John and Alice's house in Loun

Makeshift house quickly put together by John from salvaged materials ... currently a family of 8. 

Remains of Abu Iata's house/kitchen in Loun

Remains of a partial-concrete structure in Loun

School building in Loun where countless took shelter during the cyclone, and many women and children continue to sleep (Miswel)

John showing off a flying fox (fruit bat)

Remains of a house in Loun

Getting ready for the day in Loun (Taiwan and Kal's wife)

Breakfast in Loun ... yams and flying fox (mmmmmmmmm)

Remains of church building in Loun (left) and our meeting place this Sunday (right)

Alice telling the children stories about Moses in Loun

Loun assembly Sunday am

New banana shoots ... promise for a fruitful future

This house in a village just north of Loun, the only concrete structure in the area, sheltered some 127 people (!!!) during the cyclone. It's approx 215 square feet (24m2).

Villagers working together to rebuild houses from salvaged and new local materials

House at Lorakau Rural Training Center where Aaron, Cindy, Kaela and Melia lived in 2011.

Ahhhh, Patu ... that smile!!!!

RonJon, Tess and Yaris in Lorakau

Harry in Lorakau

Classroom in Lorakau that saved countless lives during the cyclone and still houses several a week later

Two of Harry's houses in Lorakau are still standing, though they had fallen to the side and had to be pulled back upright by several men using ropes

Remains of the boys' dorm at Lorakau Rural Training Center

Huge banyan tree split in half by Cyclone Pam, just outside the Baker's old doorstep

Chief Nako in Lorakau

Water tank that supplies Loun Village ... a pipe was badly damaged by a tree falling on it and the village has been without their water supply for over a week now. The school's water tank is quickly running out.

New sprouts on the banana trees that were broken in half by the storm

A little local medicine ... this is what happens when you let the white man use the bush knife!

Back at John and Alice's

My place for two nights in Loun

Tom in front of the remains of the Iatukun church building (all the posts are still standing!)

Makeshift shelter at Tom's in Iatukun ... a great place for lunch and a siesta

The remains of Tom and Margaret's main house in Iatukun. Thankfully their water tank is still intact, and their water supply is functioning!

Tom had just recently completed this structure in anticipation of this year's visitors

Makeshift cook house at Tom's in Iatukun 

Remains of a house in Iatukun

For the first time ever, I could see the ocean while sitting at Tom's house ... the trees were badly mangled by the storm, leaving behind no leaves and few intact branches. Things will begin to scorch soon in the Tropical March sun.

Sunset my last night in Tanna

As I walked through the villages I saw many calves, chicks and piglets ... signs of new life and future providence

Two heaps of rice bags awaiting distribution at the airport in Tanna